Troubleshoot your Scalp Issues…
Last February I wrote about the surge in scalp related products and services, and I’m back with a comprehensive roundup of my favorite remedies for every non-medical scalp malady I see frequently.
Typically, I see 3 main concerns emerge with a few sub concerns that branch from the tree. Itching, flaking, and oiliness.
Itching and flaking are not mutually exclusive, they can be walking hand in hand alongside each other on your scalp, or they can ride solo, or along with a host of other issues. Itching is usually the result of irritation, and the irritation can be caused by an accumulation of bacteria, yeast, (both which can stem from too much sebum), reactions to fragrance, product build up, hard water minerals, dryness, etc.
Flaking on the other hand, is the accumulation of dead skin cells shedding off the scalp, and can be caused by poor circulation, build up, lack of exfoliation, yeast overgrowth, sebum build up, or dry skin. Most flaking I see is the result of oil, yeast, and product build up.
Oil is a component called sebum, and your follicles each have a tiny gland called the sebaceous gland which produces a small amount of the secretion. Sebum is healthy, and helps maintain the correct acidic PH of the scalp. The issue is when the gland is over producing sebum, and the excess creates a breeding ground for yeast and bacteria.
Both eczema and psoriasis can cause itching and flaking, but are chronic health conditions, so although some of the recommended products can help manage symptoms, they cannot be cured.
I’ve attached my handy quick reference guide, and i’ll run through my arsenal below. Because so many of my favorite items are multifunctional, I’ll organize them by “pre shampoo” or “post shampoo”. If you find this helpful, take a peek at my shampoo guide in the last post, and utilize the shopping links to purchase from me. If you’d like more help with your scalp, you can come and see me at the studio for an in depth consultation with trichoscope analysis, or a scalp facial.
Pre Shampoo Treatments
One of the easiest things to work into your routine, I use this every sunday for an at home scalp reset. Hair Renew Pre Wash from Innersense is formulated with Zinc Gluconate, Magnesium Oil, and Micro Hyaluronic Acid. It's a gentle chemical exfoliant that hydrates, prevents flakes, and reduces inflammation. The built-in applicator makes using it a cinch, and regular uses helps to keep flakes at bay, and extends the results of a scalp facial. To use, run the applicator in rows down the scalp, squeezing gently. Apply a thin layer to the scalp, massage in, and let soak 5-10 minutes before washing. Follow with a physical exfoliant for an even bigger cleanse.
Hair Renew Scalp Oil is great for those who experience dry, tight, dusty flakes on the scalp due to a lack of natural oil. Sesame, Sunflower, and Pomegranate oils lightly hydrate skin cells, and help soothe itching. Apply to dry scalp and massage in for 10 minutes before washing. For extra flake removal, try using a soft bristled brush to gently exfoliate before shampooing.
Similar to the Hair Renew oil, Scalp rescue by Hui Hui Essentials is effective for those with a dry, tight scalp- with the added benefit of anti-fungal and anti-microbial oils like Rosemary. Although it's listed as a growth stimulant, there are other treatments with verified research that I would seek out first, but dont let that stop you from adding this beautiful smelling herbal oil into your wash routine.
I love the Hydro Balance Scalp Gel! I have also been using this 3x a week at night, and the oil calming properties are mind blowing. Even though I wash daily, I was dealing with sebum build up clogging my follicles and making my hair thin out. I would highly recommend this for anyone with night sweats, hyperhydrosis, or a chronically greasy scalp. This is for anyone who gets oily or sweaty between wash days, especially if its sticky, flaky, itchy, or irritated. Apply a thin layer to the scalp the night before your wash days, and it will help calm the sebaceous and apocrine glands to allow your hair to go farther between wash days without discomfort, odor, or dandruff. Start with applying 2-3 times a week for a month, then scale back to 1x a week for a month, then bi-weekly or as needed for maintenance. Hot tip- you can use this before applying deodorant to discourage bacteria growth as well.
Sometimes you need a little more oomph than your trusty shampoo brush can provide, and this scalp scrub from Innersense really does the trick. Hawaiian Red Salt, Apple Extract, and Peppermint oil exfoliate, hydrate, and stimulate in one step. Because of the salt granules, I don't recommend this for anyone with dry or sensitive skin- use the Hair Renew Pre Wash instead. Pro-tip, mix this scrub with equal parts shampoo in a squeeze bottle to make applying to the scalp easier. After scrubbing, rinse well, shampoo, and use a comb with your conditioner to make sure all of the granules have been removed.
Another in heavy rotation, Detox Hair Mask from Innersense. This mask has White Vinegar, Kaolin Clay, and Activated Charcoal, and is designed to pull hard water, sebum, product build up, and environmental toxins out of the hair and scalp so that your shampoo can wash them away. I like to think of it as flossing before brushing, or sweeping before mopping. Its a great alternative to clarifying shampoos (not that we don't love them), and feels so refreshing and soothing to the scalp and hair. To use, rinse your hair thoroughly, and then apply a generous layer of the mask to your scalp and hair, and comb through. Twist into a clip, and let soak for ten minutes before rinsing, and then double cleansing with your favorite shampoo.
Post Shampoo Treatments
Daily Active Serum is an under appreciated tool that deserves more recognition. This serum is a jack of all trades in that its lightweight, hydrating, soothing, and scalp fortifying, without being an aggressive minty powerhouse of stimulation. Pea Sprout extract strengthens follicles, while Tea Tree and Hemp Seed oils calm bacteria, and hydrate. This serum is watery, and doesn't leave any greasy or sticky residue behind, and the glass pipette makes application easy. I've been known to massage this into my eyebrows as well, as I imagine what my life would have been like if tweezers didn't exist in the 90's. Apply 1/4 pipette across the scalp in rows, and massage in with your fingertips. Allow to sink on for 5 minutes before applying styling products
Densifying, Vivifying, and Nocturnal Remedy are three topicals that combat the effects of DHT in the follicle. If each hair follicle is the root of a plant, DHT is the weeds that suck nutrients from the soil, causing the plants to whither and die. Pretty disturbing, eh? The issue with DHT is it's the result of naturally occurring testosterone in our bodies, and we cannot change our hormones. Some us are more sensitive to DHT, and we may begin to notice thinning on the top or hairline of our hair (loss in others areas has a different source, come see me for a consultation if you're unsure). Hair loss is best addressed with a multi-therapeutic approach- we have to treat the cause, plus bolster the activity in the follicles to help jumpstart dormant hair. These sprays use Buddleja Davidii Plant Stem Cells, Basil Stem Cells, Pea Spout Extract, Horse Chestnut, Organic Maqui, and more to inhibit the production of 5-alpha reductase—the enzyme responsible for the conversion of testosterone to DHT— anchor the follicle, strengthen the hair bulb, and encourage cell growth in the follicle. For best results, use 3x weekly on freshly washed hair, and allow to sink in for five minutes before styling. I'd also highly recommend using these in conjunction with Microstimulating hairbath, and see me for a consultation so we can get some 'before' images of your scalp so we can track your progress.
Possibly one of the best smelling products i've ever encountered- Soothing Remedy is a panacea for all things irritation related. Fennel, Bergamot, Roman Chamomile, and Zanthozylum provide instant relief and anti-redness effects for scalps that suffer from psoriasis, eczema, irritation, dryness, and allergies. Its also slick for bug bites, scrapes, and treating irritated hands when you forget to wear gloves before washing out hair color. cough, cough. This leave in is also great after a scalp bleach or color if you find yourself itchy. To use, apply a thin layer anytime, anywhere you need for relief.
You might not immediately think "scalp health" when you look at Superwater, but this antioxidant packed toner is a burst of calming hydration for the skin, scalp included. Holy basil, Lactobacillus Ferment, and vitamin C are suspended in hydrosols from Sandalwood, Rose, and Chamomile, making it beautifully floral and soothing . You can spray this liberally on freshly washed hair to add moisture and light detangling without weighing fine hair down, and you can use it as a facial toner, setting spray, or a skin refresher any time you need. I like that you can get aluminum refills for the gorgeous glass bottles, deterring plastic waste and over production of heavy glass packaging.
Greatest Scalp Hits, Vol 1. Tonik has been on heavy rotation and it's not hard to see why. This herbal powerhouse does it all, and looks and smells great while doing it. This spray is refreshingly tingly, and boasts Saw Palmetto to reduce DHT, Salicylic Acid to prevent flakes and excess oil, and Green Tea for it's antioxidant properties. I love this for anyone who wants to maintain a healthy scalp, especially if its prone to flaking.