2023; the year our scalp itched

Idk about your social media feeds and interpersonal relationships, but 2023 showed me that as a society, we had itchy heads. not only did i see a sharp rise in the amount of products geared towards the skin north of our eyebrows, but i fielded a larger than normal amount of questions about scalp health. i know a large contributing factor is social media, its influencers and the al-gore-rhythm pushing content to the masses, but another part of me can’t help but somewhat cynically put part of the blame on previous anti-care/shampoo trends plus 7 step hair styling routines. in short, we’ve spent far too long plastering our heads in every cream, oil, and mousse imaginable and then skipping shampoo it for a week or more. should we be surprised that we have itchy scalps? i know i used to preach the no shampoo gospel according to a certain person who wrote a certain book about curls, but that information is wholly outdated and uniformed. in simpler times we could barely find a quality product to style hair as it was, and using conditioner to wash our hair left it heavier, and flatter to help “control” the texture. with the abundance of hyper-gentle cleaners and diverse styling options, we can safely shampoo with abandon and use products that accentuate our natural texture.

when i’m working with someone who comments on their scalp being itchy, the first questions i ask are what types of styling products they use, and how often they shampoo them off. think of wearing makeup on your face- how easy is it to cleanse off? do you need to double cleanse, or use a make up remover first? if your mascara is waterproof do you need to add another step? now lets think about hair products- how many are meant to repel humidity (water)? were there creams or oils in the mix (repel water)? did you add more product or dry shampoos on the subsequent days? how would your face feel if you added makeup to it a few times a week, without washing it in between? is one quick wash with a sulfate free shampoo really enough to break down a weeks worth of hair product, sebum, sweat, shed skin cells, and environmental pollutants and dust? I recommend everyone shampoo as often as their lifestyle and styling process allows, or at the minimum once every seven days.

*as of july 2024, I have changed my stance to once every 3 days. the microbiome and acid mantle can be thrown out of whack when oil accumulates with dead skin, products, and environmental pollutants, and it happens quicker that we think. wevery body is different, and each client gets a specialized routine recommended .

if i’m working with someone who shampoos regularly (2-3x week) and they have an itchy scalp, i check their scalp during their appointment. if i see visible scaly patches, irritation, broken skin, etc i refer them to a dermatologist. eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, and true dandruff all require a medical diagnoses and treatment.

*as of july 2024 I have changed my stance. you do not need to see a dermatologist for simple scalp issues, however, I will still refer you to a doctor if we cant achieve relief in 8-12 weeks on a targeted routine.

https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/itchy-skin/itch-relief/relieve-scalp-itch

if none of those symptoms are present, i then look at the brand of product that’s being used. sometimes clients can be itchy as the result of sensitivities to essential oils and synthetic fragrances. the clarity line from innersense is wonderful for those who have essential oil sensitivities.

if none of the above are issues, i finally go down the rabbit hole of scalp treatments and serums to help clients find relief. scalp treatments are skincare for your scalp, and just like with skincare for your face they can range from serums, sprays, masks, and exfoliants based on their desired results.

Tonik from Cult and King. Containing 1.25% salicylic acid, this super refreshing minty spray helps control excess oil, and aid in cellular turnover for a clear scalp. this is great for acne prone scalps, folks who are prone to getting oily, and for anyone who loves a tingly scalp.

Detox Hair Mask from Innersense. Contains kaolin clay, activated charcoal, and white vinegar. Although its billed as a clarifying hair treatment, i find this feel wonderful as a pre-shampoo treatment, especially if you have hard water or swim in a chlorinated pool.

True Enlightenment Scalp Scrub. Highly exfoliating, smells like mint chip ice cream, and is suitable for someone prone to flaking that’s not itchy or irritated. Pro-tip- shampoo well afterwards to ensure no salt is left behind in your hair.

Harmonic Hair Renew duo from Innersense. A two step treatment to exfoliate and soothe. Step one is a pre-wash treatment with oat, hyaluronic acid, magnesium, ands zinc to soothe itching and exfoliate the skin. Apply a thin layer five minutes before you hop in the shower and shampoo off. step two is a serum featuring pea sprout extract, tea tree, and hemp seed oil to fortify the scalp and follicles with nutrients and antioxidants. its thin in nature and although it contains oils, its a true serum that absorbs instantly without leaving any residue. while the pre- treatment is recommended for use 1-2x week, step two can be added daily.

are you itching for more? come see me for a scalp treatment at your next haircut, puns free of charge.

😅♥️

jen